Updated on August 9
This page is for reviewing the specifications of the collaboration jeans.
You are welcome to download and freely use the photos below.
Fabrics
/KIBATA denim:
This is unsanforized denim with no anti‑twist (skew) processing. It will shrink by about 9% in the inseam after washing.
/13.5oz
/The production area is Hiroshima, Japan.
There is a light pink-colored yarn running through the selvedge.
The weaving tension is set relatively low, giving the denim a slightly uneven, textured surface.
Color fading examples.
Materials
/Leather patch
It is a high‑end Italian leather called Minerva Liscio. It is typically used for leather goods such as wallets. Thanks to its high oil content, you can enjoy rich aging over time. I’ve never heard of any brand other than denim bridge using this leather.
The leather patch design is expressed by branding (burning) the leather.
Green stamp
Note: I have not yet prepared the small‑size stamp.
The leather is highly oily, so the ink repels and the stamped letters do not appear clearly. However, I don’t think it’s a problem as long as it looks about like it does in this photo.
Examples of leather aging
/Buttons and rivets
All parts are made of iron.
Top large button
Because they are made of iron, they are attracted to magnets.
small buttons
Rivets
The rivets are made of iron with a copper plating.
Labels
I’m thinking of sewing the union ticket and the DENIM BASE label onto a discreet part of the pocket fabric. What do you think of this idea?
/Sewing thread
It is a sewing thread independently developed by denim bridge. It starts out as a deep yellow, but due to friction and washing it fades dramatically and eventually turns white. It is intentionally made with low fastness so that it can even fade in sunlight.
My recommended sewing specifications
I’m thinking of the following specifications that are characteristic of a WWII model.
These are just my suggestions, so please feel free to share your own thoughts.
/Coin pocket
The pocketing fabric is cut with the grain running vertically or diagonally. As a result, the selvedge will not appear at the pocket opening, and no rivets will be attached there.
The inner denim pocket piece (the part the coin pocket sits on) will be left with a raw edge, without being double‑folded at the edge.
Stitch the coin pocket on in a deliberately rough way, with the seam slightly curved.
The fly piece (the part where the buttons are attached) will be overlocked, but the front body will be left without overlock finishing.
Note: In the photos below, the overlock stitching is done in white thread, but for the actual production we plan to use yellow thread.
The crotch area will also be left without overlock finishing.
The back pockets will be sewn on in a deliberately rough way to create a rugged, imperfect look.
The white tab will be sewn on in a loosely random position, and in some cases it may be attached at an angle.
Note: In the jeans shown in the photos below, the stitch pitch was too wide and the threads tended to break easily, so for the actual product we will use a finer stitch to increase strength.
The outseam will be sewn in a deliberately rough way so that the seam allowance width is uneven.
normal sewn selvedge
Alex “deliberately badly sewn seam on the side of the front pockets like on Sugar Cane’s super denim 46’s to name an example. I’m attaching a picture of what we mean, see the difference in length? “
The hidden rivet area will be sewn with single‑needle stitching. In periods other than the WWII era, this section is usually finished with bar‑tack stitching.
The finishing stitch at the waist — the so‑called V‑stitch area — will be done with varying angles for each pair. Sometimes it will form a steep V as in the photo, and other times a gentler V, so every pair of jeans will have a slightly different, random finish.
Lastly
Please feel free to consult me about anything — points of concern, anything you feel is missing, or any ideas you may have.
I plan to add information about the silhouette and size chart to this page. I’ll let you know when that update is made.